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Building Sound Proof Karaoke Rooms

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Saint
Posts: 5
Joined: Tue Aug 28, 2007 8:28 am

Building Sound Proof Karaoke Rooms

Post by Saint »

Hi Everyone,

Somehow I stumbled into this website and hope someone can help.
:)

I've recently built 6 room private family karaoke rooms.
The rooms are separated with Gypsum with glass wool in between.
I thought glass wool can make the rooms sound proof but it didnt.
People can still hear loud music next to eachother. :cry:

I'm planning to expend the rooms to 12 but this time I want to
do it right. Someone told me to use brick wall then layer it with
carpet so the music do not bounce off the brick wall.
Will this work? Is there better method?

My goal is to make the rooms sound proof without making the music
bounce of the wall giving terrible sound.

Please, if anybody has experince with building karaoke rooms please
advise.

Thank you so much in advance.

Chris (Saint)


letitrip
Posts: 341
Joined: Fri Nov 24, 2006 12:47 am
Location: Jackson, WI

Post by letitrip »

Two things that I know of that are typically used. First would be double walls, a room within the room type of construction. Second, used of closed cell foam for walls, ceiling and floor. The key is to confine the sound to the room without "deadening" the room itself.
Let It Rip Karaoke
DJ Tony
http://www.letitripkaraoke.com
Bigdog
Posts: 2937
Joined: Wed Jan 31, 2007 2:15 am

Post by Bigdog »

I know a guy that has sound proofed his basement with plyable foam and moving quilts.

He has 2-12" speakers, 4-15" speakers, 1-18" sub, 3 15" monitors, 3 amps and it's smaller than any bar you'll ever play. If you stand outside when it's cranked you can barely hear a thing.

Now to answer your question about why you can still hear it....

You need to use a staggered stud patteren to isolate one side of the wall from the other. They should not share the same studs.

This side of the wall studs start out at 8" then 16", 16, 16 and so on
_______________________
----I --------I-------I-----I---
I-------I-------I-------I

this side of the wall studs start at 16"

The solid line is the 1/2 drywall. The I's are the 2x4 studs. (----) is insulated area.

Now I can't get it to look perfect. The black lines should be touching the I's. And the wall space could be closer so that the studs are only 1/2 -1" away from touching the drywall on the other side. So instead of the wall being 4" thick it would 5" thick. And you will use twice as many 2x4 studs. You could go smaller if it's a decorative wall without a load. DO NOT fasten the the walls to each other they should be two seperate walls. The only thing that should be/could be touching is the insulation between the walls. Assuming it's soft foam (not rigid) or fiberglass. You don't want anything to transfer the sound/vibrations from one side to the other.
Saint
Posts: 5
Joined: Tue Aug 28, 2007 8:28 am

Post by Saint »

letitrip,

Sorry but what is closed cell foam? I'm in Indonesia and would any
construction material shops have this?
Saint
Posts: 5
Joined: Tue Aug 28, 2007 8:28 am

Post by Saint »

Bigdog,

Thank you for your detailed method however, what is
staggered stud ?
Bigdog
Posts: 2937
Joined: Wed Jan 31, 2007 2:15 am

Post by Bigdog »

The diagram is looking down on the wall from the ceiling. You need two rows of staggered studs for one wall. The drywall will not be fastened to both sides of the studs. One row of studs does not touch or fasten to the backside of the opposing wall.

Fiberglass insulation should work fine.
letitrip
Posts: 341
Joined: Fri Nov 24, 2006 12:47 am
Location: Jackson, WI

Post by letitrip »

Some specialty shops might have it. Check out: http://www.soundprooffoam.com/index.html
Let It Rip Karaoke
DJ Tony
http://www.letitripkaraoke.com
Saint
Posts: 5
Joined: Tue Aug 28, 2007 8:28 am

Post by Saint »

letitrip,

Very informative website..
Thank you

I will be shopping around for materials which mentioned
from this website.
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